Training Passive Apprehensions
by Rodney
Spicer
Apprehension work is obedience. It's not
for the dog to decide who or when he will apprehend, but only at the handler’s
direction who and when he will apprehend.
I first evaluate each dog and handler so
that I can see how clear and consistent their commands are. I'm looking to see
that sit means sit, heel means heel and apprehend means apprehend. If a dog it
not very clear in obedience, then we work in obedience to teach the dog that
each command means something specific. If you give a command and the dog does
not respond you need to be prepared to take action immediately. Immediate
action tells the dog a correction could be coming at any time thus making each
command have a specific purpose. Now that the obedience has a purpose and is
consistent, we carry this same philosophy to apprehension work. Note: This is
with a dog that is already trained to apprehend. If the dog has no training at
all, we train to apprehend first, then obedience.
I start out by having the handler put his dog on a down. I then have the helper
mill around in a calm manner with out stimulating the dog. When the helper
stands still, I give the command to guard. The helper stimulates the dog at the
same time the command is given so that the dog anticipates the action from the
helper. When the helper goes away, the handler downs the dog. By keeping the
dog in obedience, he is loading and becoming more alert in his environment.
After several of these sessions, we then wean the dog off stimulation from the
helper. The helper should only stimulate the dog for a short time and make each
encounter brief. Also, every 3-4 repetitions, the handler should reward the dog
with an apprehension. By giving the apprehend command this also releases stress
and builds confidence. It also makes each command more clear to the dog and
consequently makes the dog more explosive in the apprehension. By now the dog
has learned to associate the guard command with action from the helper.
We then start our passive apprehension training. I begin by having the helper
in a full body suit facing away from the dog. I then, have the handler approach
from 15 to 20 feet away with the dog in the down position. The handler then
makes an announcement, thus cueing the dog. I do not allow the dog to bark. If
the dog is not already focused on the helper I may even throw a coin at the
helper. In order to focus the dog. Then I give the
apprehend command. The helper is quiet and doesn't move. He remains passive
until the dog has apprehended him. Once the dog is involved in the apprehension
the helper calmly moves around thus reinforcing the apprehension. This is
repeated several times in different locations. I may then put a blanket over
the helper so the dog does not see the equipment. The handler makes the
announcement with the dog is in the down position. Then, when focused on the
helper, the dog is given the command to apprehend. Again, the helper remains
passive until the dog has made the apprehension. Only then can the helper move.
I also make it so that the only part of the helper that is exposed are the legs. The dog needs to be comfortable apprehending
any part of the body. He should not pick and choose or look for a sleeve. The
dog needs to apprehend what is accessible and counter any aggression from the
helper.
Problems that may arise include COURAGE. You cannot train for it; it is either
there or not. Dogs that bark and hold and who are corrected by the helper have
more difficulty learning the passive apprehension because they are being taught
that when the helper is passive they should bark and hold. The dog has learned
to respect the helper rather than counter his aggression. He also becomes more
vocal while on the apprehension with shallower grips because he anticipates the
out followed by the helper correction. The stick or whip should be used by the
helper to build aggression and to teach the dog how to counter the threats,
rather than to respect him. The apprehension is an obedience command. The
handler trains the dog in obedience not the helper.
Copyright © 2001, Rodney Spicer. goldk9@west.net. All rights
reserved. Visit his website at Gold Coast K9