The Keeshond Coat
Bonnie M. Simrell
THIS ESSAY IS AN OVERVIEW of the
development of correct coat color, texture and
markings in Keeshond puppies and adults; the importance of coat to Keeshond
type; and effects of conditioning and environment. Published first in 1974 (Kee Topics) and again in 1978 (The Keeshond Quarterly),
this work has been updated and expanded to reflect breed progress and the
standard revisions of 1/90. It is offered in the spirit of
Color, Markings, and Texture
THE KEESHOND STANDARD
refers to the ideal mature coat as a mixture of grey and black, with a
thick, downy undercoat of very pale grey or cream (not tawny) and an
off-standing outer coat of harsh, straight black-tipped hair. Faults include
silky, wavy, curly coats; coats that part down the back. (See Notes: Breed
Type and Standards.)
Shadings from grey to
black depend on the length of the black tips and may vary from light to dark.
Ruff, trousers, and shoulder markings are specified in terms of relative
intensity of color. Ruff and trousers are lighter
than the body, and shoulder line markings are light grey and well defined. In
most Kees, the trousers are very pale in color, considerably lighter then the ruff. The only areas
for which a color intensity is specified are the
muzzle and ears (dark), legs and feet (entirely cream), tip of the tail
(black), and the plume of the tail (very light grey, not cream). A pleasing,
alert expression depends on the required "spectacles" and light
shadings on the head and along the top of the muzzle.
Acceptable variations
of Keeshond color and markings include a dark body
coat with sharply contrasting markings; a relatively light body coat with
markings that are lighter still; and deeper shades of light grey in markings
(except for the required very light grey plume) that contrast, but less
sharply, with the body coat. Given clear color,
all such patterns and variations in between, are correct.
Too often, Keeshonds
with light color are penalized in the ring, even in favor of Kees so dark as to have
murky or indistinguishable markings and blotchy legs and feet. In truth,
lighter Keeshonds are sorely needed to mitigate excesses of black in the breed,
so long as required markings are present and their color
is clear of tawniness.
Where does
"cream" end and "tawny" begin? If one imagines the cream on
a quart of milk (a rarity in itself), the nearest definition would seem to be
"off-white," and by any definition, orange, tan, ecru, reddish-brown,
and the other atypical hues that crop up are unacceptable. Poor color in older dogs is often explained as due to their age.
However, many Keeshonds retain good color throughout
their lifetimes, suggesting its genetic origin and the ability to correct it
through selective breeding.
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4 Months.
Puppy bitch. The dark infant coat has nearly disappeared and developing
puppy undercoat dominates. This puppy is almost entirely silver, with only
dark mask, black tip of tail, and emerging guard hairs for the new outer
coat. Legs and feet are clear; facial shadings and early head markings are
apparent. |
11 Months.
Same puppy bitch. A mature bitch possessing this definition and intensity of color would be correct. At maturity, this young bitch
presented a quite dark head and body coat, and somewhat lighter ruff, while
maintaining the full, bright contrasting britches, shoulder markings, and
tail plume. |
Coat and Structure
IN ASSESSING COAT, it
is important to remember the ideal Keeshond shape, a fundamental
characteristic of correct type. His is a well-balanced, short-coupled body,
which measures square when back length and height are compared. A correct
natural coat will enhance his body contours and proportions. Some Kees bear overlong, drooping or woolly coats that mock the
elegant silhouette clearly defined in the standard. Massive coats can hide
structural problems. Keeshonds so endowed often are overweight and not in good,
hard condition.
Keeshond Bitches
KEESHOND
BITCHES EXHIBIT quite different coat development than dogs. Bitches often develop
delightful, luxurious puppy coats, but most will retire into the relatively
subdued attire of young ladies with their new adult coats. The average bitch
will cast her coat with each heat cycle, twice a year, and her most successful
attempt at flamboyance may be the characteristic plume and flashy britches,
with far less development of ruff and body coat. Many bitches retain their
plume and britches throughout their heat cycles.
Some breeders and
judges admire massive coats in bitches. In nature, however, few females attempt
to compete with their male counterparts in the matter of adornments and
stature. Why, then, should Keeshond bitches? The grossly coated Keeshond bitch
is an aberration, the canine equivalent of the bearded lady. Without pursuing
the lady's problem, suffice it to note that spayed bitches usually develop
immense coats.
Keeshond bitches should be prized for correct color, markings, texture, and denseness of coat, all
desirable qualities to be passed on to their progeny, both male and female.
For their part, judges should look again at their feminine Keeshond bitches,
rather than let gender and plumage be deciding
factors.
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Stud Dog, 4
years, and male get, 11 months. This stud dog photo demonstrates
the main points discussed in this essay: the darker coat and contrasting
markings of an adult dog; variations between two litter mates; and the
equally correct coat characteristics of all three. Subsequent photos follow
the darker puppy's maturing process, illustrating one variation of correct
coat development in a male Kees. Together, these
give a breeder's eye view of the emerging patterns of Keeshond color, not only on the body, ruff, trousers and plume,
but also in the "spectacles" and other facial and head markings.
From the entirely silver/cream 4-month bitch with only the dark puppy
"mask" (dark muzzle, stop, and jaw) come typical shadings and
eventually darkening of the entire head at maturity. |
Puppy Coats
KEESHOND PUPPIES ARE
BLACK at birth. Many have distinct markings, and undercoat color
is discernible. Spectacles are present in some puppies at birth, always within
a few weeks. With few exceptions, black markings remaining on legs and
feet after three months of age are there forever. They tend to be
associated with: atypical (long, narrow) feet; short, smooth leg hair; and dark
coat. At this stage, it is reasonable to expect entirely clean legs and feet.
Judges should expect wide variations in color intensity
in their puppy classes, not only with age differences but also among litter
mates. Characteristic shadings of the face and muzzle are present in young
puppies; again, variations in intensity are to be expected. Up to five or six
months, the undercoat predominates, and silver, pale grey, or cream are
acceptable; tawny shades are not. Dark areas on the chest, belly, and upper
forelegs at three to five months usually presage an extremely dark coat at
maturity.
Cream-colored puppies
usually grow into cleanly marked adults; some develop a tawny cast in their
adult undercoats. Very rarely will a brightly silver puppy turn tawny. Some
creamy color is likely to remain for a time,
particularly behind the ears, usually until after the puppy has dropped his
first coat and the adult coat has begun to come in, at anywhere from 12 months
to 18 or even 24 months of age. The outer coat, which develops rapidly after
six months, should be shades of clear grey.
Keeshonds always darken
with age (unless neutered or spayed), some more rapidly than others. Breeder
experience has shown that the puppy with a more mature and well-defined coat
than others in his age group may well carry excessive black at maturity. All
these acceptable variations in puppy coat hue, intensity of color,
and definition of markings suggest that this factor cannot be given too much
weight in judging puppies, with the important exception that tawny color and black markings on legs and feet should be
penalized.
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4 Years.
Mature bitch. This Keeshond bitch carried, and passed on to her progeny, the
ideal Keeshond coat texture (unusual for a bitch), clear color,
denseness, and quantity, beautiful plume and trousers, and correct markings.
She was lighter overall than she appears here. |
Conditioning &
Environment
FOR BOTH DOGS AND
BITCHES, good condition is essential to the health of the individual and, of
course, an important factor in the ring. Density of coat will vary with
climate; there are many notable exceptions, but in general the Keeshond living
in a warmer climate will not develop the thick coat that may be possible in
colder regions.
In recent years, there
has been a significant increase in immune system and hormonal imbalances in the
Keeshond. These manifest in dry, short, brittle outer
hairs; dry, scant undercoat; and sometimes poor color.
These conditions often do not show up in puppy coats, only later as the dog
matures. No matter what other positive qualities they may present, dogs and
bitches showing these tendencies should not be bred, nor should they be placed
in judging.
Lighting at dog shows,
and color photos, can play havoc with Keeshond color. Some kinds of artificial lighting, particularly
those that tend to yellow, will make the purest Keeshond coat appear dingy,
yellowy, and even yellowish green. On the other hand, the undesirable reddish
cast some coats reveal in sunlight does not show up under artificial lighting.
This problem can result from exposure to the sun (or the glare from snow) or
from old age. However, many Keeshonds maintain their healthy color in spite of age and the elements. Like tawniness, then, this tendency to redden is probably an
inherited characteristic. There is an exception, namely the presence in some
water supplies of elements that cause muzzle and lower ruff to take on a rusty
hue. In general, however, water cannot be blamed for reddening throughout an
entire coat.
Inadequate kennel
facilities and practices can have devastating effects on coat quality and color. Urine, some kinds of soil,
and concrete that has not been sealed can impart a dirty color
to what might otherwise be an acceptable clear coat. Sometimes, clear color at the skin indicates that indeed environment is
indeed the culprit in such cases. However, exhibitors ask too much of judges in
expecting them to distinguish between an inherited deficiency and an
environmental casualty.
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20 Months.
Dog. The young adult coat has hardened up considerably and stands
well off from the body; its denseness has also increased. The most dramatic
change in intensity occurred between 24 and 30 months of age. |
30 Months.
Dog. The intensity of color and definition
of markings in are very similar to the coat this dog carried for the rest of
his life. The facial markings and elegant silhouette are completely natural
and have not been enhanced by trimming or other means. |
Grooming
IT TAKES REMARKABLY
LITTLE EFFORT to maintain a Keeshond in show condition (assuming proper diet,
kennel practices, etc.): grooming with a pin brush at least once a week,
bathing legs and feet and perhaps britches and plume prior to a show, trimming
feet and hocks for a tidy appearance, and going over the body coat with a moist
chamois or towel to put a on a shine before entering the ring.
Improper grooming can
ruin both texture and density in a Keeshond coat. A complete bath two or three
days before a show, for example, will rob a coat of whatever harsh,
off-standing quality it might have had, and some time may pass before it
hardens once more. Furthermore, undercoat often is lost prematurely through
bathing or the overzealous use of a slicker brush. Improper use of any grooming
tool, but particularly the slicker and comb, will break the outer hairs. A
Keeshond normally needs a full bath only after he has cast his coat completely
and has been thoroughly groomed to remove all loose dead hair. Some male Kees cast their coats once a year; others may hold coat for
two or three years; still others grow and cast coat simultaneously and may
never go out of condition if maintained properly.
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15 Years. Here a veteran, this dog demonstrates
important facts about Keeshond coat. As a result of neutering at 13, he
developed an immense, somewhat softer coat. The effects of excessive coat on
his superb silhouette are clear: his body appears long, his legs short.
Finally, this dog retained bright clear color and
markings, consistently, his entire life. |
There are a number of
grooming techniques that may bring rewards in the show ring but are serious
obstacles to breed progress. One is trimming and thinning excessive coat to
emulate or exaggerate the Keeshond silhouette. Trimming at the base of the
tail, around the anus, is no substitute for improving body shape and tail sets
through knowledgeable selective breeding. The cutting in of light areas around
the eyes is a rough intrusion into the piquant beauty of the ideal natural
Keeshond facial markings. The natural Keeshond ear is slightly shaded (lighter)
along the edge; trimming exaggerates this quality and is easily detected.
Finally, the standard specifies smooth short hair on the legs (front and
sides). Some Kees have naturally thick undercoat on
the legs, giving a fluffier, softer appearance, which technically is incorrect.
To create the illusion of bone, often unnecessarily, most exhibitors powder,
spray, and brush up the leg hair.
Summary
- The correct mature Keeshond coat exhibits: clear color (grey, black, and cream); denseness; thick,
downy undercoat; harsh, straight outer coat; distinct markings; and an
off-standing quality. Emphasis on length at the expense of the other
qualities, or to the extent that the ideal Keeshond shape is distorted,
should be avoided. Excessive coat, like lack of it, should be penalized.
- Wide variations of color
intensity are perfectly acceptable in mature coats with clear color and distinct markings. A mature Keeshond with
these characteristics and a relatively light body coat is not only
acceptable but valuable for the breed as a whole.
- Assessment of bitch coats should emphasize denseness, color, texture, markings and the presence of
well-developed tail plume and britches.
- In puppies, the only coat and color
characteristics that realistically can be assessed are denseness of coat,
clean legs and feet, prevalence of cream or pale grey as opposed to the
undesirable shades, and presence of desired shadings of the muzzle and
head, including spectacles.
- Considerable development of the outer puppy coat occurs
at varying rates between 5 and 12 months or older. Mature markings may not
be fully developed until age 24 months or older. Young coats also tend to
be softer than adult coats. Keeshonds darken throughout their lifetimes.
- Tawniness, whether due to hereditary or
environment, should be penalized; the same is true of a tendency to
redden. These faults are extremely difficult to breed out.
- The Keeshond is a natural breed. Attempts to obscure
faulty coat texture, color, or markings by
trimming, dyeing, or other means are at the expense of long-term breed
improvement. The Keeshond is not well served by judges who overlook such
practices or breeders who apply them.
A Note about Breed
Type and Standards
ANY DISCUSSION OF
ESSENTIAL breed characteristics requires an understanding of the answers to two
basic questions: What is type? What is the purpose of a breed standard? Type
refers to that collection of characteristics which in pleasing
combination manifest in the ideal specimen of a breed. Keeshond type
comprises the characteristic details that distinguish the Keeshond from the
Pomeranian, Wolfspitz, Malamute, Siberian, Elkhound,
Corgi, and so on. These breeds share certain characteristics, yet they are
distinctly themselves. Their differences are those of type. Ideal type
thus embraces every desirable trait described in a breed standard from
general appearance, head and expression, size, coat, and gender distinctions to
gait and temperament. Typical gait, or way of going,
specified in a standard is not to be confused with soundness, which
is a universal matter. Soundness or the lack of it (e.g., cowhocks,
paddling, toeing in) manifests in all breeds.
A standard sets
forth ideal breed type and is intended to guide and reflect through revisions,
breed progress over time toward that ideal. The stated ideal is not a
matter of "should be" or "except for," it simply is.
When a standard needs only to state the ideal, with no mention of exceptions,
"acceptable" deviations, faults, and unethical practices, the breed
and its people have reached wholesome maturity: The breed is in good hands and
its type well established. Success or failure rests with breeders and judges
equally.
As a practical matter,
an early standard acknowledges, but does not encourage, the wide variations
occurring in the range of potential breeding stock available at the time.
Periodic revisions to a standard reduce and eventually eliminate
these early variations, reflecting progress toward the ideal. This process
supports and guides careful, patient, and objective selective breeding, through
which extremes become fewer and variations less pronounced. The Keeshond
standard has retained from its beginnings, and its 1/90 revision aggravates, an
anachronism that continues to impede progress and to confuse: "While
correct size is very important, it should not outweigh that [sic] of
type." This expendable comment means: "When two dogs are judged equal
in all other aspects of type, the one closest the ideal size should
prevail."
From The Keeshond
Standard
EXPRESSION. Expression is largely dependent
on the distinctive characteristics called "spectacles," a combination
of markings and shadings in the orbital area which must include a delicate,
dark line slanting from the outer corner of each eye to the lower corner of
each ear, coupled with expressive eyebrows. Markings (or shadings) on face and
head must present a pleasing appearance, imparting an alert and intelligent
expression. Very serious fault: Absence of dark lines which form the
"spectacles."
COAT. The body should be abundantly
covered with long, straight, harsh hair, standing well out from a thick downy
undercoat. Head, including muzzle, skull, and ears, should be covered with
smooth, soft, short hair velvety in texture on the ears. The neck is covered
with a mane, more profuse in the male, sweeping from under the jaw and covering
the whole of the front part of the shoulders and chest, as well as the top part
of the shoulders. The hair on the legs should be smooth and short, except for
feathering on the front legs and "trousers" on the hind legs. The
hair on the tail should form a rich plume. Coat must not part down the back. Faults:
Silky, wavy, or curly coats. Part in coat down the back.
COLOR
AND MARKINGS. A
dramatically marked dog, the Keeshond is a mixture of grey, black, and cream.
Coloration may vary from light to dark. The hair of the outer coat is black
tipped, the length of the black tips producing the characteristic shading of color. Puppies are often less intensely marked. The
undercoat is very pale grey or cream (not tawny). Very Serious Faults: Entirely
black or white or any other solid color, any
pronounced deviation from the grey color.
Head. The muzzle should be dark in color. "Spectacles" and shadings are
characteristic of the breed and must be present in some degree. Ears should be
very dark, almost black.
Ruff,
Shoulders and "Trousers." The color of the ruff and
"trousers" is lighter than that of the body. Shoulder line markings
of light grey must be well defined.
Tail. The plume of the tail very light
in color, and the tip of the tail should be black.
Legs
and Feet. Legs
and feet are cream. Faults: Pronounced white markings; black markings
more than halfway down the foreleg, penciling
excepted; white foot or feet.
Copyright 1993 by Bonnie M Simrell. All rights
reserved. Because of the importance of photo quality, duplication is
discouraged. For reprints, please write GemKees
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