YOU’VE DECIDED TO GET A PUPPY

A very informative booklet for what to expect after deciding to get a puppy

 

 

LEARNING MORE ABOUT THE BREED YOU HAVE CHOSEN

 

Breed Clubs

It is up to you to learn as much as possible about the breed you have chosen, before you start viewing puppies. Most breeds have a “job” to do and were originally bred to serve man in different ways, herding and guarding livestock, protecting their owners, flushing out game for hunters to shoot and retrieving them for the owner from the water. Some like Newfoundland’s were owned by fishermen to drag the nets back to the boats and would also save a man who went overboard. It is fascinating finding out the history of your breed.

 

 Even if you have no intention of showing or breeding you are bound to be interested in the breed in general, it is a very good idea to join your “Breed Club”. Every breed has at least one breed club and the popular breeds often have several clubs based in different parts of the British Isles.  If you telephone the Kennel Club they will tell you the phone numbers of the clubs for your breed.  It often only costs about £5 to join. You will need a “proposer” and “seconder”, both of whom must already be members. It is quite probable that you won’t know any members, so tell the secretary this. Most membership secretaries will propose you and ask a member they know to second you.  If you do want to show, only buy a puppy from a breeder that regularly wins at Championship shows.

 

You will receive newsletters and yearbooks which are very interesting, with lots of photos of your breed. When you ring ask about the hereditary diseases that affect your chosen breed, what they are called and how they affect the dog, whether it is serious or life threatening. Write them down, some have long and difficult names to remember until you are familiar with them. If you have access to an on-line computer you can find out all about them, but books will also explain the problems well.  The breed clubs are often more knowledgeable about their breeds’ health problems than a lot of veterinarians. The veterinarians will know how to treat them, if they are treatable, but may not know exactly which conditions affect which breed. Find out which conditions can be tested for and what the acceptable results are. Ask which books on the breed you should buy, there are so many and some will be better than others.

 

Books

Always check that any “breed” books are written and published in Britain. American pedigree dogs are kept differently and some breeds can look quite different in subtle ways, from the way breed has developed in this country. Always look to see when it was first published and buy one that has been written at least in the last few years.  Health and other problems in a breed can change very quickly, as do the ways veterinarians’ treat them, so you want to make sure you are reading up to date information.

 

I would recommend that you buy any puppy book written by Dr. Ian Dunbar and anything by Kay White. The one book I highly recommend is one called “The Doglopedia” by Kay White and Jim Evans. It comes in paperback and hardback and is a fabulous all round dog book that you will refer to all through your dog’s life.  If you buy a bitch get “The Book of the Bitch” written by the same pair. If I only had two books on general dog care, they would be the two I’d buy.

 

Dog Shows

 

When you ring the Kennel Club about breed clubs also ask them if there is an open show near you soon.  Dog shows are held in most areas, most weekends, which may surprise you.  They are often held at Leisure Centres and are often only advertised in the dog press and usually locals don’t even know they are happening, unless they show dogs!!  Go along and talk to exhibitors about their breeds. Wait until they have finished showing for the day though, they may too busy grooming and preparing their dogs, and most will be happy to chat when they have finished. You can have fun watching the classes and guessing which dog will win.  You may even find that some of the people showing their dogs are expecting puppies or even have some for sale. Seeing dogs “in the flesh” and being able to meet and watch them may help you make up your mind if you are still not too sure which breed to go for. There have been many books written about which breed to choose depending on your home and family situation. I won’t attempt that here.

 

 

WHAT IS A PUPPY FARM/PUPPY FARMER

 

Finding the right puppy can be very exciting but it is also full of pitfalls.  Sadly all over the British Isles, not just in Wales as some people think, many puppies are bred and sold just for the money that they fetch.  They exist in dreadful conditions, without any love or affection leading miserable lives as breeding machines.  Once their breeding life is over they will almost certainly be dumped destroyed or drowned. They get just enough food and care to keep them alive – if they are lucky.

 

These places are puppy farms. Some of you may have seen them on the television or read about them in other media, but many people not involved in dogs have never heard of them.  This is why I have written this guide to avoiding them, to try and help you find a good reputable breeder.

 

Newborn puppies are very delicate; they are born in a premature state, in comparison to most other animals.  They are blind, deaf and have under developed nervous systems at birth. They can’t stand up but drag themselves around by their forelegs to find a teat or warmth.  For the first two weeks they do very little except sleep and suck.

 

Their eyes start to open from nine days, depending on the breed and gradually their hind legs develop sufficiently to allow them to stand up and take their first wobbly steps between two and three weeks.  It is vital at this age that they receive lots of gentle handling and play time with people, getting used to being petted and picked up. They should have lots of room to gallop about and play with toys preferably outside if the weather is mild, in a clean and safe environment.

 

The breeder will start the weaning process between two and four weeks of age, depending on how much milk the mother has. Little meals are introduced gradually increasing the quantity of food and frequency of meals so they gradually take less milk from mum, so her milk has a chance to dry off slowly and finish suckling them by seven weeks at the latest,

 

Some mothers are happy to stay with their babies until they are sold and others have had enough by the time the puppies are five to six weeks, they are all different. By five weeks the puppies should be having four or five little meals a day, having daily play and ideally in and out of the house all day with the family.

 

By six weeks early weaned puppies are able to be independent from their mother but are still very small and sleep much of the time, they are still much too young to be sold.

 

Puppies grow and strengthen a great deal between six and eight weeks, and their personality is forming fast now, it is so important that they are in the right sort of environment to explore, meet people and get used to household activities.

 

When the puppies are first born the mother has weeks of hard work ahead, and the only way she can rear a litter of strong healthy pups is to be in the peak of condition well before she is even mated.  Then she must be fed on the very best food and given a great deal of care with all her needs, emotional and physical, catered for until she has completely recovered from having her pups, which may take four to eight weeks after the puppies are sold.  It’s a long process – pregnant for nine weeks then working hard to look after them for several weeks, she needs to be very carefully and knowledgably looked after.

 

Young puppies are very susceptible to infection and disease that older dogs may shake off, so the place the puppies are born and reared in must be spotlessly clean.  Dogs mature very quickly in comparison to us – eighteen months as opposed to eighteen years and all their growing processes happen at great speed.  This is why it is so important for puppies to be fed with a correctly balanced diet, correct for their breed/type, right from the start.

 

A puppy born to an under nourished, ill cared for mother, then reared on an inadequate diet in dirty surroundings with little or no human contact has the very worst start in life.  You can’t make up for months of neglect.  A puppy farm puppy may never be as healthy as a puppy from an experienced reputable breeder.

 

 

WHAT IS A PUPPY FARM

 

These are factory farms where any numbers of bitches (often dozens and sometimes hundreds) are kept, usually of several different breeds that are kept solely for the purpose of making as much money for a little outlay as possible.  Bitches often have two litters a year (one registered, the other not).  Good breeders would normally only mate a bitch once a year at the most. This means that puppy farm bitches for eight or nine months of every year are either pregnant or rearing puppies for many years, usually until they stop breeding easily, when they are destroyed.  They have no time to recover properly in between litters.

 

It can be hard to spot a puppy farmer because they go to great lengths to pretend they are good breeders.  Don’t be deceived, many of these people are smart and well educated, they don’t have to live on a farm or even in the countryside, and they may live in a flat with no garden and keep several bitches in crates in a spare room.  They may be archetypal farmers on a farm, but not necessarily.  One thing they will have in common though is that they will be keen to deliver a puppy to your home or motorway service station.  This is so you don’t have to see the awful conditions that they have been bred in.  The worse the place is the more keen they will be to deliver, to keep you off their premises. They say it’s because they want to see your home and where it’s going to live, like they care!!  If a breeder doesn’t want to see the puppies at home then go elsewhere.

 

I should clarify at this point that traditional farmers are not necessarily puppy farmers, though of course some are. A puppy farm may be run as a sideline on a traditional farm but many famous exhibitors of dogs are also farmers, but they are not puppy farmers.

 

I cannot stress strongly enough that the place to buy your puppy from must be from a caring breeder and preferably one who specialises in just one or two breeds.

 

Many puppy farm puppies die within days or weeks in their new home. This is doubly upsetting if there are children in the family.  Of course the poor puppy is often (but not always) half the price of a well reared one, which is why most people buy them. “Oh we just want a puppy for the kids, I’m not paying £400-£500” is a common reply when they hear the normal price for a well bred well reared puppy.

 

A cheap puppy soon becomes a very expensive one after several hundred pounds worth of veterinarian’s bills and then dies with no insurance cover.

 

Puppies that never leave their tiny indoor pen have no opportunity to do what little puppies should do: have lots of room to run about and play and chase each other about, to feel the sun on their backs and roll around in the grass.  To have toys to play with when they are bored with their siblings and a daily explore around the house.  Puppies that never leave their pen are under tremendous mental stress and those that have no distractions or toys will start to either become withdrawn or hyper-active.  Under these conditions some of the hyper ones will become over-dominant (bossy) and start to bully the others mercilessly just because they are bored.  They will almost certainly become destructive, destroying their beds and bedding (if they have any) and anything else they can get their teeth into.  Once established this destructive behaviour can be very difficult to overcome. As well as being mentally stressed they are physically stressed because of their inadequate diet, exercise and dirty surroundings. Their only human contact is a dish of food slid under the gate and a quick kick if they get in the way.

 

By eight weeks the seeds are sown, if they have had little kind human contact they will be nervous and frightened by the world in general.  Stress alone can alter the efficiency of the immune system which is not established anyway at that tender age.

 

 

THE RIGHT BREEDER

 

 

·        Doesn’t breed from bitches under eighteen months or after eight years of age

·        Doesn’t breed from bitches more than once  a year

·        NEVER sells to dealers or pet shops

·        Usually only delivers puppies under exceptional circumstances, if at all, not as a matter of course like puppy farmers do

·        Is friendly open and helpful willing to answer all your questions

·        Will not fail to ask YOU lots of questions, why you chose this breed, why do you want one now, what is your lifestyle – work commitments, have you children what are their ages, do you have a well fenced garden. Don’t be upset or offended. The good breeders are very concerned to whom they sell their precious puppies, if you are not asked these questions I would conclude they don’t really care who they sell their puppies to.

·        Will be happy to show you all their dogs (except perhaps newly whelped bitches and newborn puppies)

·        Will obviously love their dogs to bits and treat and talk about them with great affection.

·        Will want to stay in touch with you after you take your puppy home to help you with any problems or queries

·        Will give you in depth information on exactly how to feed, train, care for the puppy with written feeding, worming grooming instructions

·        Will be most concerned to find the very best homes for their puppies and not be desperate to sell them quickly.

 

 

FINDING THE RIGHT BREEDER

 

By now you will realise the importance of avoiding puppy farmers and finding a really dedicated reputable breeder. There are several good ways of going about this.  You might consider:

 

 

Breed Clubs

 

Breed club members often inform the clubs’ puppy co-ordinator when they are expecting puppies.  These puppies should be better bred (look and move like they are supposed to) and have a temperament correct for the breed.  They should also be better reared than average, but one can’t generalise, you will still need to ask all the same questions, as not every breed club member will be virtuous, but you have much more chance of finding the right puppy from a member than just picking an advert out of the paper. 

 

Again you may think, “I don’t want a puppy to show, so why bother”.  Even if you have no intention of showing your dog, don’t be put off buying a puppy from a show kennel; a show dog is just one that looks and acts exactly like it should for the breed, and isn’t that why you want a pedigree dog?  These puppies will almost always have received the best of everything – a well balanced diet, regular worming, and daily play, exercise, grooming and trimming. Lots of chances to meet strangers and maybe will even have had a few trips in the car and be partly house trained. 

 

These breeders are very concerned to keep hereditary and other health problems at bay.  They will be aiming to keep the best of their puppies for themselves, so may well be trying harder than non-show breeders to avoid them, by only using tested breeding stock. People who are breeding to produce show dogs are looking to continue their “line” and should be much more vigilant than the average breeder to avoid hereditary disease.

 

All bred club members have to adhere to strict regulations as to how they look after their dogs, how often they are bred and to whom they can sell their puppies.  If it is found that they have broken the rules they can face heavy discipline from their breed club, which may well result in them ceasing to win or judge, let alone the wrath of the Kennel Club, who often ban people from showing and registering their puppies for life or many years. 

 

 

 

LOCAL VETERINARIAN’S PRACTISES

 

Ask at ALL the local veterinarians in your area.  Just ring up and ask to speak to the senior small-animal veterinarians there.  You may be asked to ring back at a less busy time, but don’t let that put you of. Most of the day, veterinarians are busy treating their patients, but there will be a time that you can speak to them.  When you get to speak to him/her ask if they can recommend a breeder of the breed/s you are interested in. If you haven’t already found out elsewhere, ask which hereditary problems are common in “your” breed, and which ones a good breeder will have tested (or screened) for and what would be a satisfactory outcome of each test. 

 

A veterinarian is in the very best position to know which of their clients (the breeders) really do care well for their dogs.  The veterinarians will have seen many or most of the dogs at their surgery for treatment and vaccinations and may well have been to the breeders premises on a home visit. 

 

Don’t be shy about doing this, its good practise.  The veterinarians won’t mind at all because you are potentially a new client for them and you will get lots of good free advice. One of the surgeries you contact may be particularly friendly or impressive in other ways and if you haven’t already got a veterinarian this is an excellent way to find one that you get on with. 

 

Alternatively of course you may already have a veterinarian, but find the one at the other end of town has better facilities or be friendlier!!  It is so important to choose a veterinarian who is friendly and approachable, and who actually listens to what you have to say. He/she should not be over-bearing, dismissive of your ideas/comments or make you feel ignorant. Find a veterinarian who is happy to help further your knowledge, one who explains exactly what he’s doing and why, and handles your pet kindly and carefully.

 

 

 

 

 

KENNEL BRED or HOME REARED?

 

It is not “PC” (politically correct) these days to buy from a kennel and all the advice is to buy a home reared puppy. However puppies are reared in all sorts of different circumstances. It would be almost impossible to rear a large litter of Labradors or bigger dogs completely in the house. Although puppies do need a lot of human contact, with as many different people as possible once they are 3 weeks old, they also need fresh air and lots of space to run about, without constantly being confined to rooms full of furniture. The mess in the morning in a room with 10 large puppies poohing and weeing all night would be appalling, and not very healthy for the human family, either. Also a breeder may have young children or very elderly relatives, neither of which mixes well with newly whelped bitches. Most bitches prefer to be quiet with their newborn babies and don’t appreciate a busy household with visitors and strangers coming in and out. It can affect the way they look after their babies, if they are constantly observed and disturbed.  A mother and her puppies should be within hearing distance of the family, but have privacy in a separate darkened heated room and be confident that she will not be constantly disturbed.

 

There is no doubt that once puppies reach 4 weeks old they should be in the house with human company for much of the day, preferably with access to the outside, say from the kitchen door. Kennel bred puppies can happily sleep outside in a heated kennel or building near the house and spend most of the day in the house. This gives the best of both worlds, fresh air and play outside and seeing other dogs and lots of human company and adaptation to household activities, meeting visitors and learning house training.

 

I would not want a home reared puppy that had hardly ever been outside to play, they have “missed out” as much as a kennel bred puppy that never comes into the house!

 

The important thing is to keep an open mind and judge for your self whether the puppies, where-ever they have been reared, are friendly, confident, plump, and clean, as all the other dogs there should be, and that the surroundings they have been reared in are suitable for the breed. I once visited a litter of “home reared” puppies to find them in an unventilated, unheated conservatory (boiling hot in summer and freezing in winter) with no access to the outside or the rest of the house. They were 8 weeks old and had never been out of the room. They may have been reared indoors, but the facilities were totally unsuitable. It was too hot and smelly, and the puppies just sat in their basket and looked at me, and were not at all confident, I suspect they had never met anyone outside the family before. The breeder was proud of the fact that these were “home reared puppies” and not bred in a nasty kennel, I was appalled!!

 

If you buy from a kennel take these points into consideration:

 

It’s usually better to buy from a small kennel, which I would call under ten dogs. It depends how many people are involved in looking after them, but ten would be a full time job for one person and really that’s pushing it. I don’t think any one person can rear more than two litters well, at one time, even if they have only a few dogs. I keep seven and don’t work elsewhere, and I only just have time to do very basic housework and occasionally cook and look after one litter of puppies at a time.  However a larger kennel with enough extra help can still do things properly. What takes up the most time, when you have a kennel of dogs, is giving them enough individual attention, exercise and play as well as grooming and cleaning out and the mundane chores. When there are puppies the breeder should still have enough time left to be able to devote several hours a day to them.  Puppies born and kept mostly in a kennel situation should be in their new homes at eight weeks, don’t buy a kennel reared puppy later than nine or ten weeks unless it spends most of every day in and out of the house with the breeder.

 

So good well-reared puppies can come from a kennel or a kitchen, just make sure the facilities are suitable. If they are reared well in the house then there should be no smell to speak of. It is not OK for the house - or kennel for that matter - to be smelly or dirty. They should have regular access to the great outdoors in good weather. If mostly kennel reared the kennel should have large concrete or concrete and grass runs attached, which the puppies can go in and out of at will. Full bowls of clean water and comfortable beds and bedding. Kennels should be able to be heated when puppies are young or in very cold weather, again depending on the breed. Toy breeds probably do, “do better” in the house, as small puppies they can be quite delicate.  Fresh air and room to play is very important for all breeds. If you are buying from a kennel, choose one that only breeds one or two breeds, not the large commercial kennels that supply many breeds. Don’t be taken in by their sales talk, buy from a specialist kennel.

 

HOBBY BREEDERS

 

This type of breeder has two or three pedigree bitches, which live in the house as pets and sometimes breeds puppies. The problem to consider here is whether or not the owners is also an experienced breeder and dog owner or is this among the first litters they have bred.  Do they know about the hereditary conditions of that particular breed?  Do they know how to look after the mother and their puppies properly? They may love them to bits, but do the puppies get the right diet, regular worming, correct handling etc?  If the owner does all the right things then this may be a source of your new puppy as long as you don’t mind whether its’ a good example of the breed. There also may not be the back up and “after sales service” though. If they are not very experienced they may not be able to help you in the future, with any problems that may arise. Lifetime help and advice is always offered by the experienced reputable breeder. 

 

KENNEL CLUB

 

They will send you a list of recently registered puppies from unlicensed breeders.  Unlicensed breeders are those that register no more than four litters a year. Some breeders brandish their licence as a good thing, but if they breed many litters a year this would make then the sort of commercial enterprise or maybe even a puppy farm that you wish to avoid. Those that do register more than four litters a year have to be licensed, by law, by their local council with annual inspections.  Those that breed four litters a year or less are generally considered to be more desirable. It is useful to have this list but remember that these are in no way “recommended” puppies; they could equally easily be poorly or well reared and bred.  If you want to know how many litters a breeder has registered in any three months of the year you can buy a “breed Supplement” from the Kennel Club, which contains all the puppies registered in a three-month period for all the breeds within a group.  If a breeder has several litters in one “quarter” then it’s likely you can times it by three or four to get their annual litter count.

 

 

UN-REGISTERED PUPPIES

 

Some people think that they will save some money and buy a cheaper unregistered puppy.  Don’t fall into this trap. You might as well get a cross breed, free to good home.

 

Without KC registration you have no proof that the puppies are in fact from pedigree parents, they may look pedigree at 8 weeks to an inexperienced buyer and then grow into a dog that is obviously a cross breed.  Those that do not register are probably breeding from over age bitches (bitches should not have puppies after their eighth birthday without KC permission, which is rarely given).  Also a bitch owner may not register more than one litter a year from her, which is an excellent new ruling.

 

Those that don’t register puppies can breed from their bitch every six months without a break, which is appalling practise. It also means they can breed as often as they like and from as many bitches as they like without having to have their premises inspected or be licensed and the conditions are likely to be very poor. This sort of breeder is only motivated by making money and cares nothing for their dogs or the future of their breed, whatever they may say or whatever excuses they give.

 

Don’t be conned!  If you want a pedigree puppy get a registered one, if you want a cross breed, get one from rescue.

 

 

RESCUE HOMES

 

Rescue homes sometimes have puppies that have been born to rescue bitches. Although in some cases the mother may appear to be a pedigree, the puppies almost certainly won’t be. It is very important that the mother has a friendly temperament (a lot to expect in a rescue kennel) and appears in good physical condition.  If she was rescued in mid to late pregnancy and was in poor condition it is likely that she wont have healthy, sturdy puppies. You can be reasonably sure, though, that a recognised kennel will have looked after the mother and puppies well.  These puppies should be re-homed before ten weeks at the latest as they have come from a kennel environment.

 

Don’t be tempted to take on an older rescued puppy that was not born there or has been a victim of cruelty or neglect if this is your first puppy or you have children and/or a busy or noisy household.  Sadly, many rescued puppies have emotional problems of varying severity that needs someone with lots of experience and who has a good knowledge of how to help these damaged dogs lead happy lives.  Even a puppy as young as sixteen weeks, who has had a bad experience and may have been in several homes may be very difficult to deal with by anyone inexperienced.

 

 

COMMERCIAL BREEDERS

 

These are usually large kennels specialising in several breeds. They often display advertisement boards on the roadside.  Although there are some similarities to a puppy farm in so much as they are breeding for financial gain the differences should be:

 

·        Kennels will be purpose built, spotlessly clean, with comfortable beds, access to outside runs all day if its mild, clean bedding in beds and on the floor.

·        All the dogs and puppies obviously clean and healthy looking, showing interest in you, active with waggy tails and a happy outlook

·        Breeder friendly and helpful willing to show you all the dogs and spend as much time as you want, answering your questions

·        Puppies well wormed, some commercial breeders sell their puppies having had their first vaccination

·        All the paperwork in order, KC registered with the form there for you to see, and take if you buy the puppy. Pedigree details (mother and father) must tally with the KC registration form

·        Puppies should definitely be insured.

 

Although these puppies may not have been in the house much, if at all, they should have received lots of handling and be confident to meet you. If all seems in order you may get a good puppy here, however it is always preferable to buy from a small private breeder where they will receive more individual attention.

 

ADVERTISEMENTS

 

This is probably the most commonly known source of puppies, but hopefully you can find a puppy by means mentioned earlier. Once you start answering advertisements you really have to “let the buyer beware”.  You will have to sort the good from the bad with clever questioning and a little bit of intuition. For example:

 

LABRADOR PUPPIES. KC reg. 8 weeks. Carefully bred and lovingly reared, black and yellow puppies. Excellent pedigree.  Strong affectionate happy babies from good natured parents with low hip scores and clear eye test. See with mum and rest of the doggy family. Properly wormed, free insurance, lifetime help and advice, extensive puppy pack. To approved homes only. Vaccinations by arrangement.  £300

 

This advert says a lot about the puppies and the breeder seems to be a caring one who has done the right things. Compare it to the one below:

 

LABRADOR PUPPIES. KC reg. Dogs and bitches. Excellent pedigree and temperament. 6 weeks, can deliver, ready now. £250.

 

These are typical adverts taken from a weekly yellow free paper. Each advertiser pays the same for an advert of up to 50 words. Why is the second advert so short, when they could have said so much more?  The second advert generates no interest for me at all. They are selling puppies at 6 weeks, which is far too young, and are offering to deliver, which should always be viewed with suspicion.

 

Almost all adverts contain the words “excellent pedigree”. Some “breeders” think that just because there are one or two ancestors, way back in the pedigree that are Champions that they are entitled to put excellent pedigree in the dogs’ description. In my eyes at least one quarter of the dogs on a five-generation pedigree should be Champions to be entitled to say “excellent pedigree”.  That’s about 20 Champions out of 62 names on a pedigree.

 

The first advert tells me so much more and the breeder really sounds a caring one that has done a good job rearing the puppies.  I know which puppies I would want to go and see; I wouldn’t even bother ringing the second advert.

 

Always look for what the advert doesn’t say as well as what it does say.

 

So far we have concentrated on avoiding the puppy farmers and less desirable breeders, but don’t become too cynical. Genuine breeders do exist. 

 

When you ring up in reply to an advert do be polite and friendly.  Do your best not to sound suspicious, a puppy farmer will soon pick up on this and tell you lies to convince you they are good breeders.  A genuine breeder may well be offended if you sound suspicious and decide they don’t like you, and therefore may not sell to you. Ask about the puppies etc in a friendly way. Good breeders know they will sell their quality puppies easily and won’t do a “hard sell”, they know they can pick and choose the best homes that are on offer for their precious puppies.  A puppy farmer may well try a “hard sell”; a good breeder never does this. Also the price quoted in the advert is the price you pay, don’t try and knock the price down, this is the ultimate crime of a prospective purchaser ringing a good breeder. They will think “how dare they try and beat me down when they haven’t even seen the puppies”.

 

An experienced breeder, good or bad, will be able to tell exactly how well informed or how experienced you are very quickly, so don’t pretend you know more than you do. Hopefully though, by the time you have digested this book you will be much better informed than most “novice” buyers.

 

Good breeders are extremely fussy who they sell their puppies to, but are usually willing to sell to first time owners if you show sufficient interest in learning all about how to look after your new puppy properly.

 

 

 

REPLYING TO ADVERTISEMENTS

 

Do ring at a reasonable hour, dog breeders are usually very busy people who often have other family commitments, like cooking and eating dinner!! There is nothing more annoying than being dragged away from your Sunday lunch with long lost friends; someone even rang me for puppies on Christmas Day once, when I didn’t even have any puppies, unbelievable!!

 

Try and ring during office hours or at least no later than 7pm.

 

Further on there is a list of questions that I suggest you ask when you ring up. Have a sheet of paper to write down the phone numbers and the answers each gives to your questions.  There is nothing worse than after a day of phoning round, finding the perfect puppy/breeder and then not remembering which particular advert it was!

 

Once you have introduced yourself, either tell them you have a list of questions to ask or work the questions into the conversation and tick them off as you go.  A good breeder won’t mind at all, and will be pleased you are so well prepared.  Sometimes a breeder is so enthusiastic about their dogs they may well answer all your questions when you just say “Can you tell me about the puppies, please?”

 

There is so much to remember and think about when you ring up and speak to breeders.  Hopefully having the list of questions to ask will help. Do listen to answers given, very carefully.  Are your questions actually being answered or do they “beat around the bush”.  Your first concern will be to find out if it is a puppy farm. When you ring, for example say: “I’m ringing up about the puppies in the paper” rather than “I’m ringing about the Labrador puppies”.  Most puppy farms have several different breeds of puppies for sale at any one time, so if they reply “Which breed do you want?” or something similar, it may show they have several breeds available at the same time, and is not the sort of breeder you want to buy from.

 

Don’t give them any idea of the answer you want, in your questioning.

 

Whatever you do, don’t ask them if they are puppy farmers!  If they are they would never admit to it and a genuine breeder will be mortally offended!  Ask how many dogs they have altogether, if its dozens, or they don’t want to answer, be suspicious.  You should be well armed with information from this book, to sort out, with intelligent and polite questioning, whether they are the sort of breeder you are looking for.

 

For example:  You have by now (hopefully) found out about the hereditary diseases and conditions that affect your chosen breed.  You now know what they are, does the breeder that you are ringing?  You can ask (knowing the answer) “What hereditary diseases affect this breed?” and see what sort of answers you get.  Any breeder that doesn’t know or doesn’t explain them clearly, probably doesn’t know as much as you now know, and should be avoided like the plague.

 

You also now know that six weeks is far too young for a puppy to go to its new home.  Ask: “What age will they be ready to go?”  You know it should be seven to seven-and-half weeks at the earliest, and preferably not till eight weeks.

 

Even if the price is an important factor to you, as it is to most of us, don’t let it be your first question.  If you do, a good breeder will get the message from you that the most important aspect as far as you are concerned, is the price, when they are keen to tell you about their lovely babies. This does not get you off to a good start with them. If they feel you are worried about the price, they may think that you may not have the funds to look after and rear the puppy well and meet all the expenses that a new puppy brings.

 

 

QUESTIONS TO ASK WHEN YOU RING UP

 

·        “I’m ringing up about the puppies in the paper, can you tell me about them please?”

 

·        “Have you got a black bitch puppy?” (Or whatever it is you want)

 

·        Now ask the price, if you don’t already know

 

·        “Are they reared in the house or in a kennel environment?”

 

·        “Have they been registered with the Kennel Club yet?”

 

·        “How many times have they been wormed?”

 

·        “Have they been vaccinated?” (Puppies under eight weeks are unlikely to be vaccinated, but may be vaccinated against Parvo Virus.

 

·        “At what age will they be ready to go to their new homes?”

 

·        “How old is the mum and has she had puppies before?” Try and find out how many litters, it really should not be more than four or five though the KC allow a bitch to have six registered litters

 

·        “Do you own the father of the puppies too; can we see him (If they do own him) and /or all the other dogs, if we come?”

 

·        “What hereditary problems does the breed have?” (If these problems can be screened/tested for, has it been done and what are the results?”

 

·        “Will they be insured?”

 

 

When you have found one that you like the sound of, arrange a mutually convenient time to go and see them.  If they sound just what you want, don’t delay, good puppies sell very quickly. If they are advertised before they are ready to go the breeder may want a deposit. This is normal practise. I wouldn’t send a deposit for a puppy you haven’t seen, as deposits are usually non-refundable.

 

If you can, go and visit the litter between five and eight weeks and leave a deposit if you are sure you want one.  You may not be able to actually choose the puppy, as the breeder may want to keep one themselves and of course, they have first pick! They may not decide which one they are going to keep until the puppies are eight weeks. At eight weeks most puppies are “miniatures” of what they will look like as adults, and this is the perfect age to choose them, on looks. If you do leave a deposit, make sure you get a receipt, which includes the balance to pay on collection and written confirmation that if they have not already been registered, that they will be by eight weeks.

 

Leave plenty of time for the journey and don’t be late!  If you are going to be more than half an hour late, phone them and let them know. They may have more clients coming later on.

 

If you are viewing puppies that are actually old enough to collect that day, make sure you have made preparations both at home and for the journey. You will also need to have exactly the same food that the puppy is being fed. Find out what and how often they are fed and make sure you have the right food.

 

Everyone who is going should wear unimportant trousers and flat, lightweight shoes. Friendly puppies will jump up, so skirts and tights on the girls and ladies will be ruined, and you don’t want your legs scratched by their little nails. They may also lick at your shoes, and try and undo your laces, so don’t wear your best.  People arriving “done up to the nines” don’t impress dog breeders!  Do have the attitude that you need to impress the dog breeder, that you will give the puppy a permanent caring home and that you are willing to learn, and actually listen to what they tell you about caring for the puppy. Don’t have the attitude that you are doing the breeder a favour by buying a puppy; it is very definitely the other way round!

 

Small puppies are very easy to tread on, they seem to delight in getting under your feet, and it is much more preferable to wear soft shoes, like trainers, than high heels or steel capped boots!  The very last thing you must do is injure a puppy.

 

If you are taking children with you, they must be old enough to understand a “pep talk” and be relied upon to do as they are told.  Tell them they must NOT pick the puppies up, a good breeder will find them something for the children to sit on, on the floor and allow the puppies to crawl safely over them, at floor level. They must NOT shout and scream or run about, wave their arms about or be at all rowdy. I have refused to sell puppies to people several times because their children were so badly behaved that I was too worried that the puppy would be hurt or frightened in a home with children like that. They may not mean any harm, but puppies don’t know that, and “not meaning any harm”, is no good when the puppy is injured or so badly frightened or roughly handled that it starts to bite or cower, and who could blame it?

 

Even bold, friendly puppies will back away if they are frightened by you or your family, and you could ruin their temperament if your child frightens one, it could be scared of children for life.  Girls should have long hair tied back in bunches or a pony tail, so it doesn’t hang in the puppy’s face when they bend down to them.

 

“See the puppy with its mother” is good advice, but what do you look for?  Is she the right size and shape for the breed, and have the important characteristics for the breed (i.e. be an acceptable colour)?   There is a fashion these days for buying white puppies of breeds that do not recognise white as a colour for that breed, for example white Boxers and German Shepherd Dogs. Please be aware that these are more likely to be deaf than Boxers or GSD’s of the accepted colours. Don’t be fooled into paying more for these puppies than the ordinary price for the breed, they are not more desirable in the dog world.

 

Is mum in good condition? This is a tricky question. By the time puppies are six or seven weeks the mother has had several weeks of hard work as caring for and feeding her puppies is a twenty-four hours a day job. Some bitches have puppies like shelling peas, love every minute of it and never lose any weight, staying playful and bright. For some others, its just jolly hard wok, and some bitches “milk off their back”, i.e. they put everything into their puppies through their lavish supply of milk, and can lose a lot of condition and often some of their coat (fur), even though they have been fed as much good food as they can eat. Large litters that the bitch has “done well” can really drain her and leave her looking thin and fraught for a few weeks, until they are weaned and she can regain her good condition. If you visit a litter of four weeks of age the bitch is very likely to look thinner than she normally would, but by the time the puppies are weaned she should have put on weight. A “good milker” may take several weeks to regain her former condition.

 

Some bitches are very maternal, and while the puppies are still living full time with her, she may be concerned about visitors and not be over friendly with strangers. Once the puppies are four to five weeks old though, most bitches are happy to show their brood off. Although she may not be actually friendly, a good pointer of temperament within the kennel is that ALL the other dogs should be friendly. If they are, the bitch’s true temperament is probably good. She should not however growl or behave aggressively. She should appear alert and interested.

 

Many breeders will have weaned the puppies from the mother completely by six or seven weeks, and if you are viewing at eight weeks it would be quite normal for mother and puppies to be living separately, so that the puppies are completely weaned and ready to sell. You should be able to see all the litter together, not one puppy brought up to the house.

 

You should be able to view all the other dogs there, unless they have young puppies, but don’t expect to pet them all. Look and see their condition and watch their reaction to you. Dogs will often bark a greeting, but they should also be wagging their tails and look interested to see you. They should be confident to approach and meet you, not hanging back.

 

If the breeder won’t show you the other dogs, or its obvious that there are more in other buildings, be suspicious. If the breed of dog includes dark colours, they should have very shiny coats and be in excellent condition. Long coated breeds should be well groomed, with no tangles or mats.

 

SO:

 

·        Are the premises clean with little or no “doggy” smell and suitable for the dogs, either purpose built kennels with well fenced runs or are they a collection of shabby sheds, untidy cold draughty outbuildings.

 

·        If the dogs live in the house, does it smell like lots of dogs live there? It shouldn’t, unless perhaps it’s very wet weather and the dogs are long coated. Use your judgement.

 

·        Does each dog have a comfortable place to sleep with cosy bedding?

 

·        If there are large numbers of dogs kept it is better (for hygiene reasons) that the puppies are separate in some way. Especially if there are lots of movements of animals going on in that kennel. i.e.: they go to shows, do dog grooming for others, or also run a boarding kennel or do activities that entail different dogs coming and going, have visitingbitches to their stud dogs. There will be many chances in a busy kennel like this for infections to be brought in to the puppies from outside, if they are all kept in close proximity.

 

·        Is the place well organised, clean and tidy?

 

·        Is there sufficient bedding (often sawdust or shavings on the floor, blankets or paper in the beds) or are there pools of urine or lots of faeces lying around? Straw is not very good bedding for dogs.

 

·        Does every dog have access to a clean bowl of water?

 

·        Do they look happy?

 

The puppies may well be asleep when you arrive so give them a chance to wake up properly. Sleepy puppies won’t be that bouncy or friendly-another good reason to arrive on time. The breeder will hopefully have chosen a time for you to visit, when they will be easily woken and not when they have just gone to sleep. Small puppies sleep a lot of the day and when they are tired, they just can’t wake up to play!

 

Once they are awake and running about, hopefully you will be allowed to be in with them, and not standing on the outside looking in. If some are already sold but not collected yet, the breeder may put them somewhere separate after a few minutes so that you can see the only puppies that are available. Or if you definitely want a male puppy they may put the bitches back and only leave out all the available dog puppies. This is quite normal. Its hard to choose when, as you are trying to choose, each one you like, is already sold! You should be able to see the whole litter running about together for a little while though.

 

Squat down to their level and talk to them in a gentle cheerful voice and encourage them quietly to come to you by holding out one hand for them to sniff.  Puppies prefer to be rubbed under the chin, rather than having the top of the head stroked, they may shy away if you move too quickly or try to pat them. Stroke, don’t pat, patting may hurt a small puppy!  Chattering away to the puppies when you first meet them is important, don’t be shy or feel silly, it will give them confidence. You want to see the puppies at their best so treat them as they need to be treated to get the best out of them.  A caring breeder, who loves his dogs and puppies, will talk to them all the time and they won’t think you are at all strange!  In fact this is what they want to see, someone who knows how to “be” with small puppies. Don’t pick any up unless you are invited to, and then always with both hands. The correct way is to lift the puppy under his chest with the right hand and then let it rest on your left arm with the left hand around its bottom and the right hand holding around the chest under the head, so that there is no way he can jump from your arms, which a puppy will try to if he is not being held properly.  Ask if you are not sure, there is no need to worry, a good breeder will be more than happy to show you how to hold their precious puppy. 

 

Very soon they should all be tumbling about, playing and play-fighting with each other and one by one investigating you, your shoes or handbag, showing a keen interest. Puppies that don’t approach you or need great encouragement to do so should be avoided. Well-reared puppies will show no fear, as long as you and your family don’t frighten them.  Sometimes there will be one or two puppies that are a little less confident than some of the others, but they should still approach for fuss. These ones have probably been at the end of the pecking order and may have a more cautious temperament. Although they will probably come on fine in a quiet household, do not choose one of these if you have young children. If you are a quiet sort of person, this puppy might suit you well. If you like the quiet puppy, ask the breeder to put the bossy puppies away, so you can see how it is with one non-bossy littermate around.  Keep your movements slow and your voices quiet.

 

Watch the puppies while they are playing. Are they bright and bouncy, up to mischief with each other and toys/bones? Or are they sitting around looking anxious?  Is one bigger or rougher than the others, or is there one that always beats the others to the toy or for fuss and attention? If so, this will be the dominant (boss) puppy. There is always a boss in a litter, and the puppies have a definite pecking order. The boss puppy is not always the best choice for a first time puppy buyer, they may seem more appealing, but will possibly be harder to train and try and dominate you more than one of the others, especially if it’s a male. Please take this advice if you are buying a large or guarding breed.

 

 

ARE THEY ALL A PICTURE OF GOOD FUN AND GOOD HEALTH?

 

·        Plump and sturdy, really clean and well groomed

·        Clean under the tail, no bright pink skin or staining

·        Bright eyes with no discharge, no thick discharge from the nose, though it is normal for the nose to have a very little watery discharge from the nose to keep it damp.

·        Pink gums. Pale gums indicate incorrect diet or lack of correct worming

·        You should be able to pick up a small fold of skin easily, it should feel cool and pliable and spring back into place immediately you let go. The skin should not feel tightly stretched across his frame; this is an indication of poor general health. Skin should be smooth and supple with no scurf, scabs or bare patches.

·        In the majority of breeds the upper teeth should fit closely over the bottom teeth, like ours do. They should grow out of the jaw vertically and straight in alignment. The teeth should not point forward or back and the canine teeth should lock together. If one jaw is noticeably longer than the other and the teeth don’t fit together closely the puppy may not have a correct mouth. This can be very important if the problem is severe the puppy may not be able to eat properly as an adult. If you get as far as choosing a puppy, get the breeder to “show you the puppy’s mouth”. This is perfectly normal procedure, you cannot tell by looking at a closed mouth, covered by lips. If you can see the puppies tongue lolling out, or poking out there will almost certainly be something wrong with its mouth.

·        Do they have squashy lumps on the tummy button or high up between the hind legs, if so it could be a hernia. Male puppies testicles, when felt, there should quite clearly be two little lumps. If there is one big one, it could be a hernia. Male puppies’ testicles haven’t always descended at this age, so one squashy lump in that area is much more likely to be a hernia than testicles!

·        Have a look in the ears, the skin should be clean and pale pink to grey coloured. Bright pink or hot ears are carrying ear mites or an infection, which may not be serious, but would put me off. Have a little sniff, if the ears look healthy and smell of nothing then that is fine. Do check both ears; sometimes a puppy will have an infection in one ear but not the other.

·        Young well handled puppies should not growl at you, unless of course you give them good cause, i.e. making silly growling noises at them-which a surprising number of people do, or if you startle them in some way. Any self-respecting puppy will growl back! And could not be blamed.  However most young puppies will “play bite” especially if you dangle your fingers around its mouth, again lots of people do this and wonder why they are bitten!  If you put your hand down to stroke the puppy, stroke it, don’t dangle!! All puppies nibble at anything they can get their little teeth into, the breeder should show you how to discourage it.

·        Puppies that are used to being in the house will gallop in from outside. Those that have hardly been in the house will be nervous of coming in and may have to be carried or persuaded to come in, or enter in an apprehensive manner.  The way they enter the house from outside will give you an indication of how often they have come into it!

·        It should take at least an hour to see the puppies and talk about feeding, worming, vaccinations, exersise, etc etc.  The breeder should show you how to groom and trim it, and how to keep their nails the right length, and all about the day-to-day care. If you were on time, you should not be hurried up, by the breeder, they should be willing to answer all your questions. Don’t start chatting about other things though and waste the breeder’s time.

·        If at any time during the visit, you are sure you don’t want one of these puppies, then do say so. Just say: “I’m sorry, they are not really what we are looking for, thank you for your time” and leave! Don’t waste their time, if you know that you don’t want one. Don’t be persuaded to buy a puppy, stick to your guns. A good breeder shouldn’t need to try to persuade you.

·        If you really like the puppies and are sure you do want to buy one, don’t go home “to think about it” If the breeder and puppies are good ones, they will sell quickly. I am not trying to encourage you to make snap decisions but if it is the right puppy, then someone else may beat you to it, if you don’t act quickly!

 

 

PAPERWORK

 

Insurance

 

All good breeders will insure the puppy for you for the first six to sixteen weeks, depending on which company they use. The most commonly used ones are Pet Plan, Pet Protect, Dog Breeders Association and The Kennel Club. The puppy will be covered from the moment you buy it. Sometimes the breeder will ring up the insurance company, on the day you pick the puppy up. You will be given a copy of the cover note, which explains what they pay out for.

DON’T even consider buying a puppy that the breeder does not insure for you.

 

RECEIPT

 

A receipt should always be given, stating the names and addresses of seller and buyer, the name, breed, colour and sex of puppy and price paid, signed and dated by both parties. You MUST be given this to take home.  The receipt may also be a “sales contract”, so read it very carefully before you sign it, and get the breeder to explain anything you are not clear about. It is normal for a breeder to request that if ever you can’t keep the dog, for whatever reason, that you offer it back to them first, before you sell it or pass it on to someone else.

 

You should tell the breeder that you will have the puppy examined by a veterinarian in the next forty-eight hours. This is because, according to the “Sale of Goods act”, you will be entitled to your money back for a seven-day period, after sale, if the “goods” are unsatisfactory. As far as the law is concerned the puppy is “goods” and if you can prove it is unhealthy or unsuitable you are entitled to your money back. Don’t abuse this right, and do get the puppy to be thoroughly examined by a veterinarian within forty-eight hours. If the veterinarian advises you to take it back to the breeder, do so without delay. If you do not do this quickly, you will lose your right to a refund.

 

If possible arrange to pick the puppy up at a time of day when you will return home in time to show the puppy to your veterinarian the same day. If it does need to be returned it will be much easier to do it the same day.  Once you have kept it overnight, you and the family will become fond of it very quickly and it can be hard to return a puppy, even the next day.  Also if you return the same day, the chances are if you paid cash, they will still have it, and if you paid by cheque it will be simple to stop the cheque.  I always buy anything expensive with my credit card or cheque book; you get lots of protection that way.

 

FEEDING AND GENERAL CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 

Make sure the breeder explains carefully exactly how and what and when to feed your puppy. Eight week old puppies should really be on four meals a day.  They are usually fed on a “complete puppy” diet, with or without extra meat. You should be given a feed chart with all the details written down clearly so that you won’t forget.

 

The breeder should also give you written details of when the puppy has been wormed and what with. It should also say how often and with what you should worm your puppy in the future. If the puppy has had any vaccinations then you should receive the vaccination card that the veterinarian supplied with the vaccination.

 

Pedigree

 

This is a form that shows the puppy’s parents and ancestors. It should preferably be a four or five generation one. Starting from the far left hand column, there will be two names, one above the other, the top one is the Sire (father) and the one directly underneath is the Dam (mother). On the right of those will be another column, this time with four names, these are the parents of the Sire and Dam, and again the next column will contain eight names of their parents and so on.   If they are not written on the pedigree and you do buy a puppy, ask for them to put the KC registration numbers of the parents alongside their names. This is especially important if the registration papers are not back from the Kennel Club yet. You will need the mother’s registration number to “track” whether the puppies are really being registered or not.

 

At the top there will be a space to write in the puppy’s name, when it has been registered, date of birth and sex, together with the name address and phone number of the breeder.

 

Underneath there should be the words: “I/We certify that the above particulars are true to the best of my knowledge” and then signed and dated by the breeder. The pedigree MUST be signed by the breeder, or it is worthless.

 

Kennel Club Registration Certificate.

 

If these are available to see, i.e.: the puppy has already been registered, compare the date of birth and parents names, with those on the Pedigree, they must be the same.

 

The breeder of the puppies (the owner of the mother) is the only person that can register the puppies. Check that the name and address of the breeder on the KC Registration certificate Is the same as the person you are dealing with and that you are at that address? If not, ask why, and be a bit suspicious if you are not happy with the answer. The only person that should be selling puppies is the breeder/s of them, and not another third party.

 

Check that this IS a Kennel Club registration form. Some unscrupulous breeders “register” their puppies with other “Clubs”. To be a properly registered pedigree puppy, it HAS to be The Kennel Club, Clarges St, London W1Y 8AB.

 

If the puppies were advertised as KC reg, then the certificate should be there to see. Breeders should not say KC Reg in an advert if the registration form has either, not been sent off by them to the KC at all or if they have not been received back from the KC.

 

If the breeder says the registration form has been sent off to the Kennel Club, but they have not received the forms back, ask when the form was sent. The Kennel Club are getting much faster at processing registrations these days, and seldom take longer than a fortnight or three weeks at the very most, unless there are problems with them accepting a name or two, in which case they inform the breeder very quickly. Don’t be fobbed off with” I sent the form in more than a month ago, and haven’t heard anything yet” This is very unlikely to be true.

 

Occasionally breeders don’t send off the Registration Form to register the puppies until they are all sold, as buyers like to choose the puppy’s name. In this case you should be shown the “Litter registration form”, it has spaces for the bitch owners name and address and bitch details on the top left hand side, the dog owners, and stud dog details on the right. Underneath will be spaces to name up to ten puppies, with columns for colour, sex and alternative names and any endorsements. It should be filled in with the parents’ registration numbers, number and gender of puppies born, date of mating and date of birth, and signed by the owners of the father and the mother.

 

If the breeder really has sent off the registration form, but not had the certificates back yet, they should not mind if you want to speak to someone at The Kennel Club, quoting the mother’s name, registration number and date of birth of the puppies. They will tell enquirers if processing has started on it, and whether or not they have received the form from the breeder. If anything feels at all “fishy” then I would not buy a puppy. It depends how important it is to you, to have a registered puppy, there are almost as many problems these days, with new owners never getting their puppy’s registration certificate, as there are with complaints about the puppy’s health and other matters.  If you have any ambitions to show or breed your puppy in the future, I would advise that you do not pay for and take a puppy home unless you are given its KC registration certificate on the day you buy it. I would only buy an unregistered puppy if I could either see the litter registration form filled in as above, or be able to confirm with the KC on the phone, at the breeders, that the litter registration form has been received and approved.

 

 

Endorsements on a registration certificate

 

When filling in the litter registration form, which the breeder sends off to the KC to register them, they can put certain conditions on each or all the puppys’ registration if they wish. These endorsements can limit what you can do with your dog in the future. The breeder can only put these endorsements on the Registration at the time of registration; it cannot be done later, or by anybody else. The endorsements are:

 

R:         “Progeny not eligible for registration” 

 

This means that even thought he puppy is registered with the KC any puppies it may produce will never be eligible for registration, unless the breeder gives permission for it to be lifted.  Breeders do this for several reasons.

 

·        It may be that the breeder wants to wait and see how the puppy grows and to make sure that it has been tested clear for any hereditary diseases/conditions and that it is fully mature before it is bred from. If the puppy does not turn out to be an outstanding example of the breed (i.e: good enough to breed from), or has unsatisfactory testing results, (i.e: a high hip score) then it should not be bred from. Even from top kennels, not every puppy will be the highest quality, and the breeder is protecting their kennels’ reputation by not allowing inferior puppies to be bred.  This is what a “responsible breeder” does. They may well want to be sure that if you do want to breed, that you have to come back to them for help and advice, which is a good thing.  No-one will know better which bloodlines will “work” with your puppy, when it’s old enough to breed, and they will be able to give you a huge amount of help and advice.

 

·        It may be that the breeder only wants to sell the puppy to a genuine pet home, to people who have no ambition to breed. Many good breeders feel there are enough puppies bred already, and would not encourage you to do so. Breeding your pet does have its dangers, for both males and females. Many people when they first buy their puppy have no intention of breeding and then as it grows, it only takes a few friends to say to you “She’s gorgeous, you should breed from her” to start them thinking about breeding a litter.  So think carefully.

 

If you have ideas about breeding from your pet, and the Registration Certificate is not there for you to see (the endorsements, if any, will be printed clearly on the Registration Certificate) ask the breeder if they are going to put endorsements on your puppy, and if so what they are.  If they say they are going to endorse with the above, ask their reasons. If they are similar to what I mentioned above, then ask if they would be prepared to lift it in the future, and under what conditions. Whatever is decided must be written into the sales contract, very clearly.  For example, “I will lift the “Progeny not for registration” endorsement when the puppy has reached two years of age and has a total hip score of 15 or less and a clear eye test by the KC/BSAVA eye testing scheme.”  This is clear and as long as the puppy passes the relevant tests, and you have a copy of this sales contract, the breeder should stick to their word.  However a lot of problems can occur with these endorsements, some breeders will lift the endorsement in the future and some may go back on their word. Sometimes breeders and new owners will disagree as to whether or not the young dog is good enough to breed from.   Hopefully you really do just want a pet, and all of this wont matter to you.

 

 

X

 

This endorsement means that the dog will not be issued with an Export Pedigree.

 

This shouldn’t matter at all, as all it means is that if you sell your dog to a non UK country, that it could not be shown or register any puppies that might be born from it. The only time it may affect “ordinary” owners is if you emigrate abroad, and then want to breed or show.  It does not affect taking your dog abroad on holiday, on the Pet Passport scheme, or even permanently, just that you can’t show it or register puppies from it.

 

Breeders do this so that they can be informed if anyone does want to get an Export pedigree for the dog. Most breeders are very concerned that their puppies do not end up in Third World countries, or to the Far East where animal welfare is very different to here. Many countries actually breed dogs for human consumption, or the fur trade or they may end up in a puppy farm abroad.   Breeders have been duped into selling puppies to someone who says they want a pet, only to find that they are only buying it to sell abroad to a totally unsuitable home, often at a vast profit. The breeder is just trying to protect their dogs.

 

So basically, if you want to breed, don’t buy a puppy with endorsement “R” on it, unless you have it very clearly in writing that it WILL be lifted when all relevant tests are done satisfactorily and the dog has reached the required age. 

 

 

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IS YOUR HOME READY?

 

Most puppies sleep in the kitchen as it has an easily cleaned floor, there will be lots of “accidents” to begin with. Don’t think that it would be kind to have the puppy in your bedroom with you for the first few nights and then move it elsewhere to sleep later on.  Start as you mean to go on.  If it is winter and the room is unheated, the pup must have a high sided box, preferably with a lid and small entrance hole.  A sturdy cardboard box, just big enough for the puppy to curl up in, is ideal to begin with.  If you really want to buy the best bedding, buy “Veterinary Bedding” from the pet shop. It is expensive, but will last for many years. Otherwise find an old woolly jumper, cut all buttons etc off, and line the box with that. If it’s something you have previously worn, so much the better, as it will accustom him to your “smell”.

 

If the weather really is freezing, then arrange for some heating at night, making sure it is safe, no electric bar fires or anything that could be knocked over or chewed. Even thought he puppy may have been slept in an outdoor kennel, it will have had its siblings to snuggle up to, and probably a heat lamp as well.  Don’t cook him though, if you don’t shiver in the room with a T shirt on, he’ll be OK.

 

Go all around your house and garden and pretend a naughty toddler is coming to stay!  Move all valuables out of reach.  Children’s toys are a great favourite, and apart from upsetting the kids when the puppy mangles them, they can also be very dangerous if the puppy swallows something sharp or unsuitable, which they all will, given half a chance!

 

It’s natural for puppies to chew so make sure they can only get hold of their own toys and bones and not your best shoes or CD collection.  If they do destroy anything in the early days, it’s your fault not theirs.

 

Make sure all live electrical cables are tucked under carpets or hidden in some way. Get into the habit of turning off appliances at the wall when they are not in use.  Sadly death by electrocution is not uncommon.

 

Fill any gaps in between fitted furniture, i.e.: the gaps between kitchen units and appliances like washing machines and fridges.  Bricks make a very handy “hole blockers”, puppies can very easily get wedged, and can even disappear right round behind units, and cannot get out again.

 

Check your garden fences; make sure your precious puppy can’t escape. Don’t forget the gap under any garden gates. To begin with it will be small spaces that he can squeeze through, but later as he grows, if he’s a medium to large breed he may well need a two-metre high fence to stop him straying. 

 

Check garden sheds, garages or outbuildings for anything dangerous. Slug Pellets, trays of car oil, antifreeze, insecticides and industrial cleaners and paint products are obviously deadly, but other things like liquid clothes conditioner are just as dangerous, if drunk or rolled in.

 

Garden ponds and swimming pools can also be dangerous.  If they have straight or slippery sides then they may be deadly because also the puppy will probably survive falling in and may be able to swim to the side, if he can’t get out easily it won’t take long to drown. Heavy duty metal mesh can be laid over ponds to make them safe.  Swimming pools should be drained when not in use.  When they are in use they MUST be either fenced so the puppy cannot enter the area or covered with a rigid cover.

 

If you have small children (under seven years) I recommend that you make an indoor kennel or buy a wire mesh travelling cage. The puppy can have a cosy bed inside and will soon adopt this as their “home”, with the door left open most of the time.  You can shut him in for short periods, while he’s having a day time nap so you can do house work that is impossible with a puppy about. Like washing the kitchen floor, which may need doing twice a day or so, until the house training is established.

 

The puppy can sleep safely without being disturbed.  They are great for helping with house training over night. A puppy who is put to bed, having been fed a few hours earlier, had a good play so he is tired, and a trip round the garden to empty himself, will sleep contentedly and you will wake up to a clean room. Puppies very seldom soil their bedding.  You can also pop him in if your children have friends to play and the pup is getting too excited, or if you have a “non-doggy” visitor, or if you have to go out without him for short periods, maximum of a couple of hours. You can return home, safe in the knowledge that your home will not have been destroyed and your puppy will be safe. Crates are very useful; I wouldn’t have a puppy with out one, but must not be overused. Seven or eight hours is the maximum he should be in it for overnight. No long Sunday lie-ins for you any more!!

 

At first, many people use cardboard boxes for a puppy’s bed. You can get a sturdy one, just bigger than the pup, cut an entrance hole out of the front and line with something cosy. They are easily replaced, so are very hygienic, and once he starts “shredding” them, you can buy a proper bed. The most popular are the rigid plastic ones sold in all pet shops, either oval or round. Avoid the ones with “ventilation” holes in the base as pups have caught their nails in them and ripped them out- ouch, very painful. Place newspaper under the bedding, so if the pup is damp, the paper can soak it up, it cannot evaporate in a plastic bed. Don’t buy bean bags or any “filled” beds like duvets, to begin with.  They will almost certainly be chewed and the puppy may choke on the filling.  You can get these types of bed/bedding when he has grown up a bit and stopped chewing everything.

 

Buy a heavy ceramic water bowl and a steel or ceramic feed bowl.  Don’t use plastic. Apart from being chewed and played with like Frisbees, plastic is now recognised as not being a good container for food or drinks, because it “leeches”, and may affect the pups mouth and tongue and pigmentation. (Black colouring to the nose and muzzle)

 

 

GOING HOME

 

So you have decided to buy a puppy and are going to collect it.  If at all possible take an adult or older child with you to hold the puppy on their lap for the journey home.  If this is not possible then you will have to borrow or buy and travelling box or crate.  If the puppy is a small to medium breed and no more than nine weeks it should fit into a collapsible cardboard container that are available from most veterinarians. They cost about £5. Or you may be able to borrow or hire one.

 

Whatever you do, don’t pick up a puppy on your own, with no safe crate or container. You cannot drive and see to a puppy loose on the seat. He will have no “car balance” at all and the first time you brake, even gently, he will fall straight off the seat, on to the floor. If he’s loose on the floor he will automatically graduate towards you, and there is a very high chance he will get stuck under a seat or even worse under the pedals. A puppy wedged under the brake pedal is no joke, believe me!  He will not stay in an open bed or basket, and he will also probably be sick all over the car.

 

Take a couple of old towels and a kitchen roll. Puppies are almost always sick on their first few journeys in the car, even if the breeder has done the right things, like not feeding him for a couple of hours before hand.  So prepare any “puppy holders” for this. If the puppy is sick on the way home, just ignore it and clean the puppy up, he can’t help it and if he is feeling sick you must be kind, so no telling him off for being sick in the car. Put one towel on the holders lap and have another ready, with the kitchen roll within reach.

 

If the weather is hot in the summer time, arrange to pick up the puppy either early morning or late afternoon when the sun is not so hot, especially if you have along journey. If you have a really long journey home – say more than four hours the pup will need the opportunity to relieve himself, though he may not actually do anything.  If this is the case, line out the boot or hatchback with newspaper and after four hours stop somewhere safe and let him loose in this area for a few moments so he can have a wee if he wants to. Be very careful he does not jump or fall out of the car, don’t take your eyes off him even for a moment.  It’s probably better not to give him anything to drink unless he has either:  been sick several times or he is panting because the weather is hot, or you have been on the road for more than five hours.  If he needs a drink he should have one, but try and stop for half an hour or so, so that he has a chance to keep it down for a while, so it can do him some good.  He may throw up again as soon as you set off, but at least you will have done your best! 

 

Make sure he is in the shade, in the car; it may mean the “holder” has to sit in the rear of the car with the puppy if the sun is shining onto the front passenger seat. If he is travelling in a crate, if it will fit on the floor behind the passenger seat, this will be ideal, as he will be out of the sun and firmly wedged, as you can slide the front seat up to the crate so that it can’t move. If this is not possible then the crate must be secured with seat belts and/or bungee clips, so the crate won’t move around in the car. This is important for your safety too, as if you are unlucky enough to have an accident or have to brake hard, a crate can become a flying missile, and be just as dangerous for the humans in the car as the little pup inside. If the crate is going on a rear seat, you may need to level it, with towels underneath.  Many car seats are not level and the pup will constantly be sliding about, inside the crate.

 

Once you have set off, go straight home, no stops on the way, unless you have to stop for the puppy’s needs. If a car door is opened, make sure the puppy can’t escape, and if you need a “comfort” stop, then be as quick as you can, lock the car up, leave every window open a tiny bit, park in the shade, and cover the crate, so no-one can see him.  If it’s really hot, you are on your own, and there is no shade to park in, you will just have to wait!!  Make sure you are “comfortable” before you leave the breeder’s premises.  It is very unlikely that the puppy has even worn a collar before, let alone be lead trained.  So, don’t put a collar on him in the car, he will hate it, and associate the car with discomfort. Don’t whatever you do try to “take him for a walk” on the side of the road to relieve himself, if he’s never had a lead on before, he will almost certainly struggle and escape. Puppies are very good at getting out of incorrectly fitted collars. This happened to a puppy I sold once; he was killed by a car before they even got him home.

 

 

ARRIVING HOME

 

Carry him from the car and straight into the garden, once everyone is in, shut any gates and put him down on the floor. Be quiet and calm and encourage him to follow you round the garden for a few moments.  He may just lie down and be too frightened, being in a strange place with strange (to him) people. Hopefully he’ll sniff about and have a wee, but if not don’t worry just pick him up and take him indoors. Keep him in the same room as you and show him his water bowl, full of fresh water, tinkle your fingers in it so he can hear that it’s something to drink.  If he has slept all the way home he may be quite lively, or of course if he cried all the way home he will be exhausted.  Be very kind and talk sweetly to him, to give him confidence in this strange place. Let him be with you until he falls asleep and then pop him in his bed.

 

About an hour after he has arrived, or once he wakes up later, offer him his food. He may take a few days to eat well; he is used to eating with his siblings and may be too tired or worried to eat well. Don’t worry, just make sure he has a chance to eat in peace, don’t have the whole family standing there watching him!  Remove what he hasn’t eaten after twenty minutes or so, and offer him food again at a “proper” meal time.

 

As long as he isn’t sick or has very loose motions, there will be nothing to worry about. If he is sick or looks depressed and miserable for more than an hour or two, then ring your veterinarian, Tummy troubles are quite common in newly bought puppies, but occasionally it can be very serious, so if he is obviously poorly, don’t “wait till the morning to see how he is”.

 

Take him to the veterinarian the following day, anyway, even if he appears fine, to have a thorough check up, so you can be confident you have bought a healthy puppy.

 

 

BEDTIME

 

Wherever the puppy is to sleep, at bedtime, put him to bed only after he has had a meal a couple of hours earlier, a good play and trip round the garden to hopefully empty himself.  Put him to bed, with a couple of safe toys, shut the door and go to bed. Personally, I never go down to them again till the morning, no matter what sort of a racket they make. Some pups will only cry for a night or two, and the trick is to ignore them.  If you start going down to him, he’ll think you will always come if he cries, and it will take much longer for him to settle at night. You can put a ticking clock in the room, as it is supposed to help them sleep, sounding a bit like a heartbeat. He will never have slept on his own before and is bound to be lonely. If he only cries for a couple of nights, consider yourself lucky since it sometimes takes up to a fortnight. Don’t go down to tell him off either, it isn’t his fault, and mustn’t be punished for this, just ignored.

 

In the morning, if he is not confined in a crate, there will be mess on the floor. Take him straight out into the garden and then come back and clean it up.  He must not be told off at all for making a mess overnight, if you weren’t there to let him out he MUST NOT be blamed at all. Just clean it up and don’t hold it against him, always remember he’s just a little baby, who has lost his mum and siblings, and needs love and encouragement.

 

Take him out every hour, or after a meal or long drink, and immediately he wakes after a nap. Don’t put him out, you have to go out with him, and as soon as he starts to “perform” say “Good boy, be clean” and keep saying it until he’s finished. It won’t be long before, whenever you say “Be clean” he will go if he needs to.  This is very handy before a journey, or if you have to go out and leave him for an hour or so.

 

I hope that the advice I have given is helpful to you and that you are able to find the right puppy for you and your family and that you all have great fun together.

 

Copyright 2001 I. A. Pyart.  All rights reserved.

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